If birds are to be of maximum usefulness, good fit stock is essential.
Fanciers should look for:
1. Condition--overall fitness and sound plumage.
2. Colour--complying with Standard (critical in some breeds)
3. Conformation of type (Shape).
Remember, it costs no more to feed top-class birds than it does poor specimens.
INTRODUCTION:
'Pure breed' fowls refers to birds that have been bred and
selected to conform as closely as possible to set standards
that have been written for each breed.
Breeding & exhibiting show poultry is a hobby followed by
people all over the world from all walks of life and ages. It
is a comparably cheap animal hobby with the biggest ongoing
expense being feed, but offers a lot to many people. It gives
us the opportunity to meet other people and build a network of
contacts and friendships through the fancy. The thrill of
winning 'Champion Bird' at a show or just striving to breed
the 'perfect bird' and watching the birds roam in the backyard makes a wonderful experience.
Poultry Fanciers can do three main things:
1. Breed show poultry
2. Exhibit show poultry
3. Judge show poultry
Anyone who starts out with a pen of pure bred birds can breed
and exhibit their fowls, but it usually takes years of
knowledge and experience to qualify as a judge. For this
reason I will be focussing on the first two options.
CHOOSING YOUR BREED:
A common question beginners ask is advice on what breeds to
keep. The best way to answer this would be to visit shows and
make your own choice. When inspecting the exhibits it would
be wise to ask breeders, showman & judges the advantages and
difficulties of varieties that please your eye. It is best to
avoid the rarer breeds/varieties when starting off as stock is
harder to obtain, and is likely to be of doubtful quality.
They will also receive little competition in shows and judges
may be unfamiliar with them thus not assessing them properly.
I would recommend a breed that lays well and make good
mothers. This way you don't have to get a separate breed to
hatch the eggs or buy an expensive incubator. Despite this
the beginner is most likely to do best with a variety that
he/she most admires, so long as they obtain good stock and are
not easily disheartened by early set-backs.
A common mistake made by most beginner's is to keep too many
kinds. Concentrate on one or two breeds at first and don't
add another until you have gained experience on the first.
This is the best advice in the world, but seldom followed.
For a brief guide on different breeds look at the
breed list.
BREEDING & SELECTING:
The golden rule is to hatch as many chicks as possible from
your best birds. This means that the beginner should start
with the best stock they can buy or obtain from a reputable
breeder. It would be a good idea to let a top breeder advise
you which birds to breed with until you get more confident and
try your own talents as a breeder. It is very important that
you don't breed from two birds that have the same fault as it
is very hard to breed bad characteristics out of a strain.
Different breeding strategies include:
1. Line breeding--breeding closely related birds so that
a specific strain can be established.
2. Double Mating--this involves one pen to breed
exhibition males, and another to breed
exhibition females
to achieve correct markings on both sexes. Breeds
include some colours
of Wyandottes and Leghorn's.
3. Out-crossing--Introducing an unrelated bird of the
same breed to improve a strain. Good
for improving
fertility and vigour.
4. Artificial Insemination--Collecting semen from a male
and transfering to selected females.
Often used in breeds
with poor fertility. eg Orpingtons, Pekin bantams,
Indian Game etc.
After you have hatched several birds, it would be wise to keep
accurate records of your breeding program so that you can
trace the parentage of present and future generations. The
records should identify the eggs from the breeding pen, the
chickens that hatch from the eggs & the adult fowls that have
grown from these chicks. This can be done by:
1. Toe punching--where a hole is punched out of the
webbing between the toes in different
combinations.
2. Leg bands--these can be numbered and\or coloured
The most important thing to know is your breed Standard.
Firmly picture this in your mind before culling and picking
out birds.
HATCHING & RAISING:
Birds have to be together 7-10 days before fertile eggs can be
collected. Also the eggs must be incubated within 14 days of
being laid. There are 3 ways to hatch eggs.
1. Letting the breeding birds go broody
2. Using foster mothers.
3. Artificial incubation-- ie Incubator
As Incubators are expensive and not necessary, I will only
explain the first two options.
*option 1: Your breed must be a natural sitter to be able to
hatch its own eggs. Look at the
breed list to see if your breed qualifies. If your
breed is a natural sitter, then the
eggs can be left in the nest, or taken out (stored) and
replaced by false eggs. When the hen(s) go broody you can
replace the false eggs with the real ones. This way they
won't get damaged waiting to be incubated.
*option 2: Find additional hens to hatch your eggs. They don't
have to be pure bred, but must not be too heavy as to crush
the eggs accidently. I find bantams make the best mothers,
especially birds that have breeds like Wyandotte, Pekin,
Silkie or Old English Game bantam in their make-up. leave
their eggs in the nest, and when they go broody replace them
with those from your breeding pen.
It is sometimes a good idea to separate young fowls into
groups of the same sex, as this can help the birds to get
along better. If the cockerels fight with one-another, there
could be permanent damage done to the comb, wattles, lobes
etc. Some fanciers put an adult cock bird in with their
cockerels (this cock bird acts as a policeman) too minimise
fighting . If a bird is showing
potential of being a champion, it could be a good idea to pen
him separately, especially if the breed has a long flowing
tail, or showy head gear etc.
PREPARATION FOR THE SHOW:
Good preparation enhances your birds, but there is no
substitute for good breeding, feeding and management. It can
be time-consuming but should not be rushed, as it is better to
take a small team of well prepared birds rather than a large
number of poorly prepared ones. Show preparation could well
be the difference between a bird with potential and a
'Champion'. Every Fancier has his own methods and techniques
for preparing their birds, so I will only provide a general
guide which should be a good basis:
All birds need to be pen trained before a show so that they
are relaxed on the day. A bird could look a million $'s in
the yard, but when its caught the night before, and whacked in
the show, they usually sulk and tighten up their feathers. It
may also cover the judge in wood shavings when he attempt's to
get the bird out of the pen. (very embarrassing for the owner)
Pen training requires the birds being put into a small pen,
similar to that at the shows. When penned they need to be handled
and fed often which is all part of the training. If possible
find a stick (similar to what the judges use) and train the
bird to display itself by directing it with the stick. Don't
be afraid to talk to the birds either, it seems to naturally
calm them down.
Before the show:
*Make sure the legs are not dry and scaly. If they are,
rub with vaseline, Olive oil or baby
oil. Sometimes the
old scales can be rubbed off using your thumb nail.
*Dirt under the scales of the legs can be removed
carefully using a tooth pick.
*Beaks and nails can be trimmed with nail clippers, but make sure you don't cut the blood
nerve.
One week to three days before the show most birds need to be
washed, especially birds that have an abundance of plumage or
are light in colour. All birds benefit from a wash, but for
some dark coloured and hard-feather breeds, its not as
critical. Heres how you go about washing your birds:
*Washing consists of 3 tubs which all contain warm water.
Tub 1. contains pure soap or normal hair shampoo.
Tub 2. is the first rinse.
Tub 3. is the final rinse.
feathers with persistent dirt can be scrubbed along the
feathers in the first tub (note: don't scrub against the
feathers as it may damage the plumage).
The birds can be dried first by using a towel to soak off the
excess water, then by using a hair drier. Make sure the bird
is NOT dried out fully, as it may make some of the feathers
twist. Instead dry it to about 80-90%, then let them finish
drying outside in the sun if its warm. Otherwise let them dry
off in front of a heater (making sure they cant get too close
as to burn themselves).
The last piece of preparation is to use a rag dipped in oil
(baby or olive) to rub on the legs, comb, face and ear lobes
to enhance the birds brightness. This can be done the night
before or in the morning before the show, but be sure NOT to
apply excess oil as to give the bird an oily appearance.
It is important when preparing your bird's that you don't
'fake' its appearance which is a serious disqualification and
judges are likely to pick-up. Faking includes colouring
plumage and ear lobes or replacing sickle feathers.
NOTE: 'faking' is different from enhancing the birds natural
qualities.
SHOW DAY:
To be able to exhibit birds in a show, you will have received
a show schedule prior to the show, and filled in an entry form
appropriately. This is usually returned to the show secretary
a couple of weeks before the show.
Now that your birds have been properly prepared, its just a
matter of transporting them to the show and doing a few final
touch-ups. Good sturdy cardboard boxes make adequate carry
boxes to get your birds to the show. Make sure you add a few
ventilation holes, and dry litter to soak up any droppings
that may occur.
Arrive at the show in plenty of time too pen your birds. Make
sure they have not stepped in droppings, which can easily be
washed or wiped off with a rag. Once you have penned your
birds, you can relax and talk to other fanciers. After
judging you may wish to ask the judge questions.
With enthusiasm and a little luck, you will be on the road to
success....
I WISH YOU ALL THE BEST!!
FURTHER INFORMATION:
* Local library
* Book shops
* Poultry & Breed Clubs
* Magazines - Fancy Fowl (England)
- Poultry Press (America)
- Australasian Poultry (Australia)
- Chicken Chat (Australia)
- North Island Poultry & Pigeon News Digest (New Zealand).
* Stock feed Merchants
* Club Newsletters
* Newspapers
We are trying our best to breed and promote Pure Bred Poultry & Waterfowl. We are trying to specialise in the repopulation of rarer breeds where possible.
The question is where to start. We are dairy farmers by trade breeding Stud Holstein Fresian Cattle and Jersey Cattle. In our spare time we enjoy breeding and showing poultry and waterfowl.